16. januar 2007 - Matjaz Intihar, translated by: Joze Sveticic
Pentax K10D and the DA 16-45 f/4 ED AL lens
In 2006, Pentax introduced its fair share of surprises. Not only did they announce a cooperation with Samsung, they also introduced the Pentax K100D (e-Fotografija DIWA Awards review) with their proprietary image stabilisation system (SR – Shake Reduction) and to top it off, they also presented the technologically advanced and aggressively priced K10D at Photokina 2006. And to end the year in the headlines, there's been news of a takeover by Hoya. This last event occurred just as film virgins, who have never heard of Pentax before, started realising that Pentax is not an obscure brand.
This last bit of news wasn’t much of a Christmas present for Pentax users. After all, Pentax was the first Japanese company to introduce an SLR, way back in 1952. In addition, they were always an innovative company (see the article on e-Fotografija Pentax history). After about 30 years of relative calm, the "real" photography companies seem to be disappearing, much in the same way as in the 70s, but to a greater extent. There’s no getting around it, digital technology is changing the landscape.
In July, at a Samsung press conference (the Pentax-Samsung cooperation already produced the K100D/K110D), the Samsung GXII was presented, a camera designed for the advanced enthusiasts. At Photokina, the camera could finally be tested. And in December 2006, it finally arrived to the shops. Why finally?
Even before Photokina, in September, Pentax presented an excellent camera at a EUR 1000 price point. Which immediately lead to the question – can they afford to sell it at that price without losing money? The competition’s cameras offered far less for that money. As always when testing a camera, neither the settings nor the image quality nor the price are what matters – it’s the camera's usability that really counts.
Pentax K10D and the D-BG2
The body
For me personally, a quick assessment of the class the camera is in and its purpose is over in a few seconds. This goes for the Pentax K10D as well. My first impression was the following: This is an excellent camera for a demanding, advanced hobbyist. In other words, people who aren’t afraid of using a few additional settings and parameters to enhance a picture, be it during capture (exposure compensation, metering mode etc.) or during postproduction (sharpening, RAW conversion etc.). Furthermore, they want the most for their money and they’re very much aware of how good Pentax actually is.
The Pentax K10D has a very good grip and ergonomics, including rubber coating. The prominent SR badge is an indicator of the built-in Shake Reduction system.
So, what does the K10D have to offer? As always, brand, dimensions and shape are a matter of personal taste. However, even here, Pentax has more to offer than the competition. While the outer shell is polycarbonate, the internal frame is metal. Furthermore, all vital parts are protected against moisture, dust and small particles. This is something that is usually found in a much higher price bracket. The camera has the dimensions of 141 x 70 x 56 mm, and with a large grip, holding it is very comfortable, almost as comfortable as the Nikon D80. The grip is also large enough to provide support for the little finger, something which makes holding the camera over extended periods far more comfortable. And for those of you who like to do things differently and use your left hand to support the camera, rather then the lens, there's rubber coating on the left side of the camera too, making the grip more secure. At all conceivable points where you might want to hold it, the Pentax K10D’s body is covered in soft rubber, making it pretty hard for it to slip out of your hands on accident.
The K10D is also the first Pentax camera with two additional contacts on the mount, showing support for new lenses that will be introduced in 2007 by Pentax.
A quick glance shows that the camera is intended for maximum control, with loads of buttons and dials to enable swift adjustments to shooting conditions. This immediately shows that the K10D is not an entry-level camera, but rather a camera aimed at the enthusiasts.
Judging by the front of the camera, you wouldn't actually think that. There’s the usual control dial at the top of the grip, which can be customised to adjust shutter time, aperture or exposure compensation, below it is the IR receiver for the wireless release, which is also used as the self-timer indicator light, and to the left of the lens, there's the lens release button. The lens mount is metal, with seven contacts for data transfer to and from the lens. To the left, there’s still the mechanical aperture lever. To the right, however, are the two contacts that are so far unique to the K10D, and which will see use in early 2007, when Pentax releases new lenses. These will not only have electronic aperture control, but will also feature in-lens ultrasonic focusing motors.
For most cameras, to access RAW mode, you need to go to the menu. This takes time. Too much time for most people, so they don’t usually switch between capture format mid-session. However, the Pentax K10D has an ingenious solution – a dedicated button to switch between the modes. For those capable of correctly processing a RAW image, using this button will make it even easier to get the ultimate in image quality.
To the left, there are three buttons. The upper one is used to raise the flash, while in the middle, there’s the RAW toggle button. This is an interesting feature for all those who never used RAW in their camera due to the fact that you had to access it through a menu. When the button is pressed, the K10D switches to RAW+JPEG mode. This is customisable in the menu, as it is possible to set the button to operate as a permanent toggle to RAW+JPEG recording or just capture the next image in RAW+JPEG, then switch back to JPEG. I often used this function to capture test shots in RAW format. After all, RAW format offers better postprocessing possibilities. At the bottom, there’s the AF switch.
All covers are rubber sealed. This helps protect the camera's sensitive innards from moisture, dust and water. This weather protection is a significant part of the camera's usefulness.
Behind the plastic covers with rubber seals, there are plugs for the wired remote, the PC/Video out and the DC input.
The Pentax K10D is capable of using SD HC memory cards. The maximum for HC cards is 32 GB. In other words, a lot.
To the right, there’s the SD/MMC memory card compartment door. The Pentax K10D is compatible with the new SD HC memory cards. Expect a short review of the ATP SD HC Class 6 memory cards shortly.
Simple and elegant. The Pentax K10D has all the settings an advanced photographer requires.
The top of the camera is very neatly laid out. To the left, there’s the mode dial.
First, let me elaborate on the USER setting. In this setting, the user can define their own settings through both the menu and the Fn button, which are absolutely independent of the settings in other capture mode. This means that settings can be saved in advance, perhaps in anticipation of difficult shooting conditions where one has to react quickly. The settings can of course be changed in the menu.
Next is the Green mode, the fully automatic (aka "My cat portrait”) mode, which differs little from the P mode. Also, it retains any settings used in other scene modes. The green mode in the K10D is still quite customisable through menu and Fn settings. For me personally, I prefer having a less customisable basic auto mode. Many inexperienced users actually benefit from less options, since the fully automatic modes are quite capable of delivering a perfectly presentable shot nowadays. This is in stark contrast to the K10D, where the green mode even has the option of different metering mode. This means that if spot metering was used before switching to the green mode, the camera doesn’t switch to evaluative metering, which is surely better suited to the novice user. Also, AF area settings remain in effects, as do tonal corrections, sharpening settings etc. For the inexperienced user, this is rather far removed from a user-friendly, fully automatic mode. Therefore, do get acquainted with the camera. It’s the only way you'll be spared the disappointment of reviewing your first shots and finding that the exposure is completely off, while the focus of your portrait is somewhere on the mountains in the back.
The P mode allows for more adjustments, including exposure compensation, bracketing and use of the green button at the top of the camera. The green button next to the shutter release resets the functions back to the program defaults in case the user shifted the aperture/time combination or applied exposure compensation. There’s also another option in the P mode, accessible through the menu (C). This is described in the menu portion of the review.
Even with their first DSLR cameras (*istD, *istDs, *istDL), Pentax was a strong innovator regarding the menus and capture mode. They introduced another fascinating mode. This is the Sensitivity priority, or the Sv mode. In this mode, the photographer only has to set the desired ISO sensitivity, while the camera chooses the right combination of aperture and shutter time. This is a very exciting possibility for those who wish to explore the additional possibilities unique to digital cameras. In Sv mode, exposure dial behaviour can be modified, so one can be used to set the ISO, while the other one can be used for exposure compensation. The Sv mode is definitely a very welcome addition, as most photographers are quite aware that a higher ISO sensitivity is not really something to be afraid of. Therefore, when the light changes, there’s no need to go to the menu or press the ISO button. A turn of the dial is all it takes to get the desired settings. This in turn of course means better capture.
The Tv, Av and M modes are so well established and vary little, if at all, from camera to camera, so there's no point in describing them in detail. A short summary: Tv is shutter time priority, Av is aperture priority, while M is manual all the way. Of course, Pentax has a few unique options for all these modes through the menus and the Fn button.
In addition to the Sv mode, Pentax added another interesting new development. The TAv mode is basically a traditional manual mode with auto sensitivity. Set your aperture and shutter speeds, and the camera will adjust the ISO sensitivity to ensure proper exposure. The control dials are used to adjust time (front) and aperture (back). The camera then picks a suitable sensitivity from a range defined with the Fn button. There’s the possibility of using a relatively conservative ISO 100-200 range, the more adventurous ISO 200-800 and 400-1600 ranges and the full monty, the ISO 100-1600 range. If you really don’t agree with the camera’s choice of sensitivity, just adjust aperture and shutter time, and you'll get a different sensitivity value.
In addition to all these choices, there’s the B (Bulb) mode, in which the shutter is open for as long as the release is pressed. In this mode, you really should use a remote release in order not to move the camera. The last setting is X, which automatically sets the shutter time to 1/180 s, in other words, the synchronisation time. Despite all the expectations such a button raises, the K10D has no X-sync contact for studio lights.
Then there’s also the metering button. No surprises here, there’s evaluative (16 zone), centre-weighted and spot metering to choose from.
The camera also features a built-in popup flash with a guide number of 11 at ISO 11 and an external flash hot-shoe. Behind the flash, there’s the dioptre adjustment dial.
To the right, there’s big LCD screen, displaying most commonly used settings with large, well-readable icons. It can also be lit in bad conditions by a button at the back of the camera. In order to display the ISO setting, you need to push the OK button.
In front of the LCD screen, there’s a small green button which resets the camera back to the unadulterated P setting in case you accidentally fiddled with exposure compensation or program shift. Further to the right, there’s the large and quite sensitive shutter release, which, if half-pressed, activates the camera and starts focusing. Through the custom settings in the menu, the shutter release can be programmed to also function as exposure lock. By default, only focus is locked, while exposure is locked with the AE-L button at the extreme right. There’s a hard on-off switch around the shutter release, also used as depth-of-field preview, or, should you choose to program it that way in the menu, used to take a test shot that is not recorded to the card. Instead, it is only visible on the rear display, along with all relevant information. There are a number of uses for this option, such as adjusting white balance via the Fn button and evaluating which setting is the best on the test shot. While you could do this with the normal method, it would waste memory card space, and more importantly, deleting images in the camera can quickly lead to file corruption on the card.
Once you get acquainted with the camera, it’s really easy to operate. Using additional settings, improving the final image is child's play. The one button that got on my nerves was the OK button. ISO display in the viewfinder is standard these days. In the most commonly used modes (P, Tv, Av and M), ISO sensitivity is not displayed. In order to see it in the viewfinder or on the LCD screen, you need to press the OK button. However, due to its placement, pressing the OK button is also an excellent way of jamming your thumb up your nose.
The back of the camera is full of buttons. There are 15 altogether. However, they are (with the exception of the aforementioned OK button) placed well, visible and easy to grow used to. Most important of all, they're useful, offering quick access to all main functions. This is exactly what the K10D is all about – offering loads of customisation and control for the demanding amateur who knows how to use these options.
Top left, there’s the bracketing button. The camera is capable of taking 3 or 5 sequential shots in steps of up to +/- 2 EV, adjustable in 1/3 or 1/2 EV intervals. The camera allows for an exposure compensation of +/- 3 EV, and the maximum bracketing is +/- 4EV. So, 5 shots can be taken from -4 EV to +4 EV, if the camera is set to 0 exposure compensation. However, if exposure compensation is set to -3 EV, the bracketing will be from -7 EV to +1 EV.
Then there's the menu button. Most pages of the menu are very easy to comprehend, however, for the C section (custom settings), you really do need either a thorough knowledge of the camera or a lot of experience. The menus will be described on a separate page.
The third button is used for deleting image, then there’s the information display button, which includes basic capture and in-camera processing information, as well as both luminance and RGB histogram. The last button is used to enter the playback mode.
To the right of this row of buttons, there’s a large, 2.5 inch screen with 210,000 pixels. The display is notable for its good contrast and saturation, making it possible to review the pictures in strong sunlight. Above it is a pentaprism viewfinder. The viewfinder is quite good, with a 95% coverage and a magnification of 0.95. The data displayed in the viewfinder is the following:
SR, flash, shutter time, aperture, focus, exposure compensation, flash exposure compensation, AE lock and remaining shots or, in Sv and TAv modes, the ISO sensitivity. In order to see the ISO sensitivity in other modes, the OK button must be pressed. Quite awkward, really. It did bother me, to be quite honest. In the digital era, ISO sensitivity is very much an important parameter. Considering how many interesting settings the K10D has, this oversight sticks out like the proverbial toe that’s been soaked in a lovely bath of hydrochloric acid.
The buttons are large and well made. This goes for the camera, too. Not too large, but very well made.
To the right of the viewfinder, there’s the button used to light the top LCD and adjust exposure compensation. Above it is a control dial, which can be set to adjust aperture or other settings in the menu. In image review mode, it is used to zoom in (up to 20x) or out.
Further to the right, there’s the AE-L button, used to lock exposure or lock captured image so that they cannot be accidentally deleted. Once the AE-L button is pressed, * appears in the viewfinder. It stays on until it's cancelled by pressing the AE-L button again.
Beneath the +/- EV button is the AF button. It can be used to activate the autofocus. If it is held, the focus stays locked, and the shutter release is limited to metering and taking the shot. With this method, shots can be taken more quickly. In the custom settings, manual focus after autofocus can be set. In this case, if the AF button is held, the shutter release is only used for metering and release.
To the left, there's the IR receiver for wireless remote which also serves as a self timer indicator.
Below it, there are three buttons. In the centre, there’s the OK button, used to confirm settings in menu or display ISO on the LCD display or in the viewfinder. Surrounding it is the four-way button, used to choose functions or image review. Surrounding the four-way button is a button used for focus point selection. When I first tested a preproduction camera, this button bothered me. It was very poorly made. Apparently, this wasn’t only my opinion, as the production K10D has a better button. There are three possibilities – using the central point, manual selection of any of the 11 points or Auto, in which case the camera picks one of the nine points and the extreme left and right points are not used. This is another area where Pentax broke new ground. Nine out of the eleven points have cross-type sensors. In layman’s terms, that's almost as nice as ice cream in the
To the lower right of the camera is a LED that blinks when the camera is turned on or off and lights up when data is being written to the memory card. Next to it, there’s a dedicated memory door latch - after all, the K10D is a step above the competition – and the SR (Shake Reduction) button.
By pressing the Fn button, four choices appear. WB, capture mode, ISO and flash.
The available capture modes are single shot, continuous shooting (3 frames per second), self-timer (12 seconds or 2 seconds) and remote release (with an optional 3 second delay.
The K10D has all the main options for white balance adjustment. Then, there are also additional possiblities. Make a test shot by pushing the On-Off lever completely to the right. This isn’t recorded to the card, however, you can access the WB menu through the Fn button and adjust the white balance on the screen. When you're happy with the white balance, just retake the shot in the usual way, and there you have it.
In sensitivity settings, the Auto range can be define. See images above and below.
You can also select the required sensitivity manually. The choice is confirmed with the OK button.
Flash modes. The Pentax K10D has all the usual flash modes - normal synchronisation, slow synchronisation and second curtain synchronisation. The same menu screen is also used to set flash exposure compensation. When working in X mode, the camera is locked to 1/180 s shutter time. In P mode, however, the shutter time can be adjusted, up to the synch time limit of 1/180 s.
And then there’s the Fn button, used to set ISO sensitivity, WB adjustments, flash mode and capture modes. In image review, it’s possible to apply digital filters, DPOF settings or activate a slideshow. If an image was captured in RAW, it can also be processed. In this mode, it’s possible to adjust resolution, compression, WB, ISO, tonality, sharpening, saturation and contrast. In other words, a RAW file can be converted to JPEG.
At the bottom of the camera, there’s a sealed battery compartment latch, contact for the battery grip, which all well protected by a rubber seal (which can be stored in the grip) and a metal tripod socket.
The K10D uses a Li-ion battery. Unfortunately, the capacity indicator was somewhat less than convincing. The battery indicator showed full almost to the last shot. For that reason, a full backup battery is mandatory, or you may well find yourself with an empty battery with little or no notification. Estimating shots per charge is quite difficult. It's very dependent on the lenses used, focusing, SR use and most of all, display use. However, for normal work with SR on, the battery should be good for at least 350 shots.
The camera uses SD memory cards. It is also
The optional battery grip makes holding the camera easier, and it also incorporates an additional battery. To the right, there’s a slot for the rubber protecting the contacts on the camera.
Inside, there’s space for an additional battery (right), memory card (middle) and remote release (left). Interestingly enough, this configuration doesn’t require removing the battery from the camera.
The small wireless remote release is a very useful accessory. For that reason, storing it in the battery grip makes enormous sense.
Menu
Basic settings are easy to learn. However, the custom settings are not quite as easy to learn and require a thorough reading of the manual. Without them, however, the camera loses much of its value, as its an immensely customisable camera.
Let's take a look at the menus of the K10D. They are displayed by pressing the Menu button at the back of the camera. The first screen to pop up is the Rec. Mode screen. To navigate through the settings, the four-way button is used. First, there’s the resolution (10, 6 or 2 MP). Then there are the compression options, marked with stars. The more stars, the lesser the compression and the higher the image quality, but also file size. Then there's the classic Pentax choice of capturing images with neutral settings or with more vivid settings. If you want to process the image further, stick to neutral settings. In the next three menu items, sharpening, contrast and saturation can be adjusted. Then there’s the choice of capturing images in JPEG, RAW or RAW+JPEG. Since there’s a dedicated button for switching into RAW+JPEG, this setting probably won't see much use. If RAW only capture is selected here, and then the RAW button on the camera is pressed, the camera switches to RAW+JPEG mode. If, on the other hand, RAW+JPEG is selected, the button has no effect. I think that in this case, the button should be programmed to switch to JPEG. However, this could have really nasty results if the fact that you were shooting JPEG slipped your mind.
The Pentax K10D makes it possible to either process the image with neutral settings or with enhanced settings. If you don’t really feel like postprocessing later, just apply the enhanced settings and your images will be ready for printing straight out of the camera. With the menu settings, you can further tweak these settings. Play around with the settings and find out which combination suits you best. However, if you know how to postprocess, capture the images with the neutral settings. This gives you some extra latitude in postprocesing.
The K10D can save images in JPEG, RAW and RAW+JPEG. Furthermore, either the Pentax proprietary PEF or the Adobe DNG format can be chosen. The DNG is apparently trying to become a standard RAW format. For now, at least, it’s anything but.
The K10D doesn’t only have classical bracketing. In the menu, additional options can be selected. In this case, only one shot is sufficient. During in-camera processing, the camera produces two additional images with different processing parameters. This even works when shooting in burst mode.
The K10D can also do multiple exposure. Also, an automatic exposure compensation can be set. However, multiple exposures are quite difficult to do. For a good image, a lot of preparation is needed, otherwise, there will be bits that move around the frame.
The next setting is used to define the RAW format – either Pentax proprietary PEF or the somewhat independent Adobe DNG. For bracketing, four additional methods are available in addition to the usual exposure bracketing. In the “Extended Bracketing” section, it is possible to set sharpening bracketing, WB bracketing, saturation bracketing and contrast bracketing. In this case, one shot is sufficient, as the camera processes that with three different sets of parameters. Also, multiple shots, up to 9, can be stacked.
The final screen is used to set the settings that should be locked and applied every time the camera is turned on.
The next menu screen, the Playback menu, has settings regarding review of images after the shot or the already taken shots.
The first option, Playback display, is used to toggle highlight and shadows warning for image review. This comes in very handy, especially in high contrast situations, when you're unsure if you got the exposure right. Then there’s the instant review setting (1, 3, 5 seconds or off) and histogram display
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This screen is used to set the information overlay for image review.
Adjustment options for recorded images.
The third setting is used for histogram display and shadow/highlight warning in digital preview. The next function, Digital Filter, is used to convert images to black and white (including colour filters), sepia toning, conversion into other tonal values, softening, stretching the picture, and lightening or darkening the picture. Another very handy option is the possibility of saving such adjustments in a separate file. The last function is used to activate the slideshow.
The Setup screen is used to adjust the main parameters.
Using the buttons, menus and the Fn menu, all settings can be adjusted. On the Setup screen, they can be saved into the User memory bank, accessible through the main control dial.
If there’s an additional battery in the grip, it’s possible to choose the active battery or leave this particularly scintillating choice to the camera.
The Dust Removal option is used to shake the sensor, making the non-sticky particles fall off it. The other option, Start-up action toggles dust removal when the camera is turned on.
The sensor cleaning system is not quite perfect. For that reason, the Sensor Cleaning mode is available. In this mode, the shutter opens and the mirror lifts up. This makes it possible to clean the sensor with your favourite sensor cleaning solution.
Reset to factory settings. Caveat: This also deletes the custom settings.
The third menu screen is used for other settings – card format, date/time settings, language setting, sound settings, display brightness, image transfer to PC or via the PictBridge protocol, camera sleep settings, menu display time.
Some of these settings deserve special attention. First of all, there’s the User setting. This is used to store the current settings for all camera functions. By pressing OK, they’re stored under the User setting on the main control dial.
The other interesting feature is naming the image folders by date. Then there’s the choice of the active battery – the battery in the camera or the battery in the grip.
Also, there’s dust removal. Under the Dust Removal menu heading, it is possible to manually activate dust removal and define whether the sensor should be vibrated every time the camera is turned on.
The next function, Sensor cleaning, is used to lift the mirror and open the shutter in order to be able to manually clean the sensor. The shutter and the mirror close when the camera is turned off. Be sure to have sufficient battery charge when doing this, or the camera might run out of juice, destroying the mirror, the shutter, the brush and quite possibly the sensor.
Finally, there's the Reset function, which resets all settings to factory defaults. Do note that this deletes all User settings.
The fourth menu screen is used for custom settings. A total of 32 of those, to be exact. It's up to you whether you want to use them or not. The first custom function is used to enable or disable the custom functions. So depending on whether you activate this function or not, the camera will function using factory defaults or your custom settings. Since there are so many functions, and since the manual is very comprehensive, I'll just describe the unusual functions.
The Program Line function sets preferences for the Program mode. It’s possible to choose between
Don't want to use the custom functions? Just disable them.
The camera can be set to optimise the capture parameters in program mode towards achieving set preferences.
The first option is used for the classic depth-of-field preview. The other option is used to capture a preview shot without writing it to the card.
The test shot can be corrected. Just press the Fn button, choose WB and adjust it to your liking. When you’re done, press OK, and the WB settings will be applied to all subsequent shots.
ISO Warning displays ISO settings above the defined value in the Fn menu in yellow.
Auto EV Compensation is exactly what you’d think it is. If you are for instance in Tv mode and you set the shutter to 1/180, but the camera cannot achieve optimum exposure with the aperture wide open, the camera will pick a different shutter time at which it is possible to achieve normal exposure.
The AF Button Function setting adjusts the functioning of the AF button at the back of the camera. It can be used to activate focus or to turn off AF and adjust focus manually.
The AF by Press Halfway function enables or disables focusing via the shutter release and transfers this function to the AF button, unless it is turned off in the AF Button Function.
For remote release users – be particularly aware of the AF in Remote Control function. This is used to turn autofocus on or off in remote release mode
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The dials can be customised almost ad infinitum.
Everyone has their own preferences. The Pentax K10D makes tries to accommodate most of them.
Using the e-dial in P, Sv, Tv, Av function, it is possible to customise both control dials.
The Green Button in Manual function is used to quickly set exposure in manual mode as it would be set in P, Av or Tv modes. If for example you set the aperture to 11 and the shutter time to 1/1000 s, and there’s insufficient light, by pressing the green button, these values are reset to the values in the abovementioned modes. Using this function, shooting in M is more user friendly and faster. It’s easier to achieve a “normal” value and then quickly adjust the exposure to your own liking
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Capture mode when the RAW button is pressed.
The One-touch RAW+JPEG selects whether, when the RAW button is pressed, the RAW+JPEG mode is used for only one shot (One time) and then resets to the capture mode defined in the menu (JPEG only or RAW only) or whether the button functions as a toggle.
The Illuminate LCD panel is used to turn LCD lighting via the button on or off.
The Release when Charging function enables shutter release even if the flash is still charging.
The On/Off lever has a third function, preview. In Preview Method, if Optical Preview is set, the lever will function as the classical depth-of-field preview. However, if Digital Preview is selected, a test shot is taken that is not recorded to the card. Using this shot, WB can be adjusted in real time. Once the WB is set to your liking, you’re free to take a real shot.
The Recordable Image No is used to display free space on card in terms of remaining shots. However, with Rcd img no (cont), the available buffer is displayed.
Initial zoom display is used to set the default magnification in image review.
Using aperture ring is used to enable shooting with older lenses, even when their aperture dial is not set to auto.
All functions can be quickly reset to factory defaults.
The last function is Reset Custom Function, used to reset all functions to factory defaults.
The custom settings are an important factor in utilising all of the camera's capabilities. As to how useful they are to each photographer is up to them.
SLR cameras are called system cameras for a reason. Using additional accessories, they gain much in the way of usability. Pentax is the only company that makes it possible to use M42 and Pentax medium format lenses. In addition, it is also possible to use manual focus K mount lenses with the optional AF 1,7X teleconverter, turning them into autofocus lenses.
I'm very familiar with Pentax cameras, which made it easy for me to grow accustomed to the K10D. However, if you have no prior experience with Pentax cameras, it's quite easy to get lost. There were only two things that really bothered me. First of all, ISO sensitivity is not displayed in the viewfinder or on the LCD screen, unless you're in Sv or TAv mode. This means you have to press the OK button to see the ISO setting, which is quite awkward to do, especially if you already framed the shot. The other thing that bothered me was the battery grip. If the buttons on the grip are enabled, it's possible to inadvertently press the shutter release with the palm. For that reason, I kept the buttons disabled most of the time.
In order to really use everything the camera has to offer, getting acquainted with the menu settings is imperative. Many functions are completely new and add a lot of value to the camera. I needed a few days of familiarising myself with the camera in order to make the most of them. However, once you set the camera to your liking, you won’t need to enter the Custom settings menu again.
The camera is turned on with a lever at the shutter release. No surprises here, it functions well. It might surprise you when you turn it on, though. If sensor cleaning is active, the camera emits a relatively loud noise. For a non-pro camera, the viewfinder is excellent. After all, it does use a pentaprism rather than a pentamirror.
The battery grip provides a better, erm, grip. It’s also quite innovative. It houses an additional battery, space for another memory card and a wireless remote relase.
Autofocus is satisfactory. While it may not be very fast, this is mostly the limitation of the in-lens motors. However, new lenses with ultrasonic motors will be introduced soon, which should make focusing much faster. I also noticed that the AF points are very wide. The camera focused on a miniscule contrast point on a white wall, even though the point was quite far away from the selected focus point. Even though contrast was only found at the very edge of the focus point, the camera would focus on it. Focus in low light was excellent. Really, really excellent. The shutter release is smooth, and with a bit of care, you won't jerk the camera when you press it. The mirror is loud and returns relatively slowly.
Metering mode, focus points, aperture, shutter time and exposure compensation are easy and quick to adjust. Autofocus activation via a dedicated button and manual focus after autofocus are also very useful. There are several novel bracketing modes, too. No use wasting too many words on the Shake Reduction system. It’s the same system used in the K100D and performs wonderfully. The dedicated RAW button also adds further unique usability to the camera.
I was also provided with two very good Pentax lenses. These were the SMC Pentax DA 12-24 mm f/4 ED AL IF and my recommendation for the K10D kit lens – the SMC Pentax DA 16-45 mm f/4 ED AL.
In review mode, the images are very saturated visible even in strong sunlight. Due to my extensive experience with other cameras, I noticed another shortcoming. This is not all that important to the enthusiast photographer. However, if you wish to use it in extremely demanding conditions, where you have to adjust most parameters for every shot you take, the camera is a bit slow. Personally, I was extremely impressed by the camera. However, since it's impossible to adjust the settings until the images are recorded to the card, it’s not suitable for really fast shooting. Then again, that’s the only thing that really bothered me.
Seen as a whole, the Pentax K10D is a very useful camera with enough options to customise it completely to your taste.
Pentax K10D, 16 mm, 1/45 s., f/13, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 16 mm, 1/750 s., f/9.5, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 16 mm, 1/500 s., f/13, ISO100. After taking a few shots, I noticed a large dust particle on the sensor. Note that this was a brand new camera. Despite the dust removal function, the particle wouldn’t disappear. However, I noticed no additional particles, which means that this one was obviously a particularly difficult one to remove. Apparently, it was something sticky and greasy. I really didn’t want to remove it, since it was perfect for test purposes.
Pentax K10D, 16 mm, 1/180 s., f/9.5, ISO100. In strong backlight, exposure correction is required. In this case, I didn’t actually use exposure compensation. Rather, I metered on the tarmac, locked the exposure, and reframed.
Pentax K10D, 16 mm, 1/180 s., f/22, ISO100, -0.5 EV.
Pentax K10D, 40mm, 1/90 s., f/8, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/750 s., f/8, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/500 s., f/13, ISO100, +1.5 EV.
Pentax K10D, 24mm, 1/250 s., f/8, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/60 s., f/8, ISO800.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/180 s., f/6.7, ISO100, +1 EV. There’s a lot of talk about the dynamic range due to the camera’s 22 bit AD converter. I know from my past experience with scanning that such claims are a good sales point. I didn’t expect too much from this "miracle”. In high contrast conditions, the Pentax K10D functions well. With a bit of exposure compensation, +1 EV in this case, burned out highlights can be avoided. For better results ...
… there’s always Photoshop. A few clicks to open up the shadows, and there you have it. Ever since digital is affordable to the masses, the shot isn't over once the shutter is pressed.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/250 s., f/6.7, ISO200. Want more saturation? Just go to the menu.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/250 s., f/6.7, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 14mm, 1/350 s., f/11, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 15mm, 1/8 s., f/4, ISO1600. Shake Reduction proved incredibly useful.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/45 s., f/4.5, ISO1600. For me personally, the noise at ISO 1600 is perfectly acceptable for an A4 print.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/15 s., f/4, ISO1600.
Pentax K10D, 24mm, 1/8 s., f/4, ISO1600.
Pentax K10D, 24mm, 1/4 s., f/4, ISO1600. (100% crop)
Pentax K10D, 24mm, 1/2 s., f/4, ISO1600. All fireworks shots were taken without a tripod and with SR on. (100% crop)
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/1000sec., f/8, ISO200.
Pentax K10D, 15mm, 1/250sec., f/6.7, ISO200.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/180sec., f/6.7, ISO200, -1EV.
Pentax K10D, 24mm, 1/125sec., f/5.6, ISO200.
Image quality
All shots are taken with the Pentax K10D and 16-45 mm f/4 lens combo at various focal lengths at f/8 and ISO 100, unless otherwise specified.
Pentax K10D, 40mm, 1/30 s. at ISO100, f/8. Below: 100% crops.
Pentax K10D from ISO 100 to ISO 1600. The noise becomes more pronounced at ISO 800.
Pentax K10D, 16mm, 1/500 s. at ISO100, f/8. Below: 100% crops.
Pentax K10D, 12-24mm @ 12 mm, 1/350 s. at ISO 100, f/8. Below: 100% crops.
Pentax K10D, 16-45mm @ 16mm, 1/350 s. at ISO 100, f/8. Below: 100% crops.
Canon 400D, 18-55mm @ 18mm, 1/400 s. at ISO 100, f/8. Below: 100% crops. There’s a noticeably colder colour cast compared to the K10D.
Comparison:
Left: Pentax K10D, 16-45 mm; Right: Canon 400D, 18-55 mm.
16 and 18 mm, with no postprocessing. All in-camera processing parameters were set to 0.
After postprocessing in Photoshop. The file from the EOS 400D could be sharpened further.
There’s a noticeable difference in the viewing angle. Also, the K10D has warmer tonality.
16 and 18 mm, with no postprocessing. All in-camera processing parameters were set to 0. With the Canon EF 18-55 mm lens, the chromatic aberration (purple fringing is more pronounced).
After postprocessing in Photoshop. With strong direct lighting, the Pentax K10D preserved more minute details. However, the EOS 400D file could be sharpened further.
16 and 18 mm, with no postprocessing. All in-camera processing parameters were set to 0.
Pentax (left) and Canon (right) set to 45 mm, no postprocessing. All in-camera processing parameters were set to 0.
After postprocessing.
As usual, image quality is difficult to quantify. Therefore, I can only give my personal opinion. All hobbyists want high-quality images. With the Pentax K10D, this is possible, except for pixel peepers who want every pixel to be perfect. I was able to make excellent 30 x 45 cm (12 x 18 inch) prints without noticing any major shortcomings.
Also, noise at ISO 1600 is very well controlled and only becomes noticeable at ISO 800. Because of this, I was able to shoot at ISO 400 with no qualms about image quality.
When viewing images at 100%, some shortcomings are apparent. Again: Every camera has image quality shortcomings, you just have to look for them. As to how apparent this is at normal magnifications, and especially in the final print, well, that’s a whole different story. If I were to go hunting for “shortcomings”, then the prime suspect would be the JPEG compression. I always shot JPEG in the highest possible quality (three stars). Despite this, a 10 MP image is compressed into a 2.5 MB file. The EOS 400D, on the other hand, produced a 3.31 MB file. There’s also something I already noticed with the Sony Alpha 100, which uses the same sensor. In high-contrast details, where the compression algorithm encounters huge differences between tonal values, it produces very pronounced lines.. However, it takes some searching to find such errors. Again, such minor shortcomings can be found in any camera by any manufacturer.
Data compression is quite intensive. At 100% magnification and postprocessing, especially sharpening, it becomes very apparent. On average, a 10MP image is compressed to 2.5 MB at the lowest (least lossy) compression.
When testing the Sony Alpha 100, I noticed strong green lines. However, with the K10D, this was only noticeable after strong postprocessing.
Again, the pronounced lines and the high compression. However, print these images and you won’t be able to notice these shortcomings.
Again: For hobbyists, the image quality is excellent. As usual, of course, much depends on correct post-processing. And then there’s the often neglected X factor – in a good picture, technical shortcomings are almost irrelevant.
Conclusion
In addition to the impressive technical specification, good handling and easy access to all major adjustments would be a very strong factor in buying a Pentax K10D.
In the 1000 EUR price bracket, Pentax just made a giant stride forward. An ergonomically sound and well made body with dust and moisture protection is unique at this price point. In addition to that, Pentax is the only company besides Sony to offer in-camera image stabilisation. This is likely to save quite a bit of money in lenses, making the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) very high. The K10D also incorporates a dust protection system. It’s not quite as effective as the ultrasonic system used by
For a long time, I longed for what Pentax calls the Sv mode. In other words, I set the sensitivity, and the camera sets the shutter time and aperture. While this is possible with other cameras, it’s not as well executed. Pentax went even further – in TAv, you set the time and the aperture, and the camera sets the ISO sensitivity. Again, some other cameras have this possibility, but their execution is not nearly as elegant. At the same time, when functioning in M, it is possible to quickly set exposure parameters as they would be in the P mode using the green button. Also, the camera will override aperture or shutter time settings in Tv and Av modes, if proper exposure is impossible with current settings. Of course, you can disable this if you want full control.
The more time I spent with the camera, the more I came to appreciate all of its features. This, of course, is only true if the user needs these features and is prepared to invest some time into getting familiar with the camera. I’m quite sure that the two major players, Canon and Nikon, will copy a lot of these solutions eventually. Another thing you need to know – the K10D is not a point and shoot camera. In other words, it will take time before you are thoroughly familiar with it. There are a lot custom settings, and you will have to find the ones that are the most important to your style. However, once you’re past the learning stage, there are very few ways in which the camera will limit your creativity. For me personally, the K10D is, technically speaking, a notch above other hobbyist cameras. Its direct competition, the Nikon D80 and the Canon EOS 30D, and to some extent the Sony Alpha, all have their unique advantages. However, if you’re currently buying a camera and you’re not interested in entry level cameras (Canon 400D, Olympus E-400, Nikon D40, Pentax K100D), then the Pentax K10D should be on your shortlist. Weather sealing, good ergonomics, direct access to all main functions via buttons, image stabilisation in the body, (limited) sensor cleaning and almost infinite customisation options are an immense advantage over its competition.
The K10D is something of a revelation - an excellent body loaded with features that produces high-quality images. It all depends on the individual, of course. To those unfamiliar with the Pentax brand, the appeal will be limited. However, with the K10D, Pentax is becoming a household name even to the film virgins. Of course, in order to achieve such recognition, they must offer more bang for considerably less bucks. Interestingly enough, Samsung is having similar problems. Their GX 10, which is a rebadged K10D, is not very popular. Why? Well ... You don't really think "Samsung" when you hear "camera", do you? For all those using other systems, well, they’re unlikely to switch to Pentax, lemming-style, especially if they already acquired a nice handful of lenses.
For everyone else buying a new camera: put the Pentax K10D on the top of your list. This is even more true if you can appreciate and use its features and customisation options. The final decision is, as always, up to you. For the hobbyist photographer, the Pentax K10D is the perfect choice.
The review was done with current firmware. Apparently, a new version of firmware will be made available in January, which will address some concerns raised in the review, and some that weren't even mentioned.
Pentax K10D e-Fotografija video (23MB)
http://www.e-fotografija.com/mojhobi/pentax_k10d.mov
Pentax K100D English version
http://www.e-fotografija.com/artman/publish/article_1154.shtml
B">If you don’t really feel like postprocessing later, just apply the enhanced settings and your images will be ready for printing straight out of the camera. With the menu settings, you can further tweak these settings. Play around with the settings and find out which combination suits you best. However, if you know how to postprocess, capture the images with the neutral settings. This gives you some extra latitude in postprocesing.
The K10D can save images in JPEG, RAW and RAW+JPEG. Furthermore, either the Pentax proprietary PEF or the Adobe DNG format can be chosen. The DNG is apparently trying to become a standard RAW format. For now, at least, it’s anything but.
The K10D doesn’t only have classical bracketing. In the menu, additional options can be selected. In this case, only one shot is sufficient. During in-camera processing, the camera produces two additional images with different processing parameters. This even works when shooting in burst mode.
The K10D can also do multiple exposure. Also, an automatic exposure compensation can be set. However, multiple exposures are quite difficult to do. For a good image, a lot of preparation is needed, otherwise, there will be bits that move around the frame.
The next setting is used to define the RAW format – either Pentax proprietary PEF or the somewhat independent Adobe DNG. For bracketing, four additional methods are available in addition to the usual exposure bracketing. In the “Extended Bracketing” section, it is possible to set sharpening bracketing, WB bracketing, saturation bracketing and contrast bracketing. In this case, one shot is sufficient, as the camera processes that with three different sets of parameters. Also, multiple shots, up to 9, can be stacked.
The final screen is used to set the settings that should be locked and applied every time the camera is turned on.
The next menu screen, the Playback menu, has settings regarding review of images after the shot or the already taken shots.
The first option, Playback display, is used to toggle highlight and shadows warning for image review. This comes in very handy, especially in high contrast situations, when you're unsure if you got the exposure right. Then there’s the instant review setting (1, 3, 5 seconds or off) and histogram display
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This screen is used to set the information overlay for image review.
Adjustment options for recorded images.
The third setting is used for histogram display and shadow/highlight warning in digital preview. The next function, Digital Filter, is used to convert images to black and white (including colour filters), sepia toning, conversion into other tonal values, softening, stretching the picture, and lightening or darkening the picture. Another very handy option is the possibility of saving such adjustments in a separate file. The last function is used to activate the slideshow.
The Setup screen is used to adjust the main parameters.
Using the buttons, menus and the Fn menu, all settings can be adjusted. On the Setup screen, they can be saved into the User memory bank, accessible through the main control dial.
If there’s an additional battery in the grip, it’s possible to choose the active battery or leave this particularly scintillating choice to the camera.
The Dust Removal option is used to shake the sensor, making the non-sticky particles fall off it. The other option, Start-up action toggles dust removal when the camera is turned on.
The sensor cleaning system is not quite perfect. For that reason, the Sensor Cleaning mode is available. In this mode, the shutter opens and the mirror lifts up. This makes it possible to clean the sensor with your favourite sensor cleaning solution.
Reset to factory settings. Caveat: This also deletes the custom settings.
The third menu screen is used for other settings – card format, date/time settings, language setting, sound settings, display brightness, image transfer to PC or via the PictBridge protocol, camera sleep settings, menu display time.
Some of these settings deserve special attention. First of all, there’s the User setting. This is used to store the current settings for all camera functions. By pressing OK, they’re stored under the User setting on the main control dial.
The other interesting feature is naming the image folders by date. Then there’s the choice of the active battery – the battery in the camera or the battery in the grip.
Also, there’s dust removal. Under the Dust Removal menu heading, it is possible to manually activate dust removal and define whether the sensor should be vibrated every time the camera is turned on.
The next function, Sensor cleaning, is used to lift the mirror and open the shutter in order to be able to manually clean the sensor. The shutter and the mirror close when the camera is turned off. Be sure to have sufficient battery charge when doing this, or the camera might run out of juice, destroying the mirror, the shutter, the brush and quite possibly the sensor.
Finally, there's the Reset function, which resets all settings to factory defaults. Do note that this deletes all User settings.
The fourth menu screen is used for custom settings. A total of 32 of those, to be exact. It's up to you whether you want to use them or not. The first custom function is used to enable or disable the custom functions. So depending on whether you activate this function or not, the camera will function using factory defaults or your custom settings. Since there are so many functions, and since the manual is very comprehensive, I'll just describe the unusual functions.
The Program Line function sets preferences for the Program mode. It’s possible to choose between
Don't want to use the custom functions? Just disable them.
The camera can be set to optimise the capture parameters in program mode towards achieving set preferences.
The first option is used for the classic depth-of-field preview. The other option is used to capture a preview shot without writing it to the card.
The test shot can be corrected. Just press the Fn button, choose WB and adjust it to your liking. When you’re done, press OK, and the WB settings will be applied to all subsequent shots.
ISO Warning displays ISO settings above the defined value in the Fn menu in yellow.
Auto EV Compensation is exactly what you’d think it is. If you are for instance in Tv mode and you set the shutter to 1/180, but the camera cannot achieve optimum exposure with the aperture wide open, the camera will pick a different shutter time at which it is possible to achieve normal exposure.
The AF Button Function setting adjusts the functioning of the AF button at the back of the camera. It can be used to activate focus or to turn off AF and adjust focus manually.
The AF by Press Halfway function enables or disables focusing via the shutter release and transfers this function to the AF button, unless it is turned off in the AF Button Function.
For remote release users – be particularly aware of the AF in Remote Control function. This is used to turn autofocus on or off in remote release mode
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The dials can be customised almost ad infinitum.
Everyone has their own preferences. The Pentax K10D makes tries to accommodate most of them.
Using the e-dial in P, Sv, Tv, Av function, it is possible to customise both control dials.
The Green Button in Manual function is used to quickly set exposure in manual mode as it would be set in P, Av or Tv modes. If for example you set the aperture to 11 and the shutter time to 1/1000 s, and there’s insufficient light, by pressing the green button, these values are reset to the values in the abovementioned modes. Using this function, shooting in M is more user friendly and faster. It’s easier to achieve a “normal” value and then quickly adjust the exposure to your own liking
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Capture mode when the RAW button is pressed.
The One-touch RAW+JPEG selects whether, when the RAW button is pressed, the RAW+JPEG mode is used for only one shot (One time) and then resets to the capture mode defined in the menu (JPEG only or RAW only) or whether the button functions as a toggle.
The Illuminate LCD panel is used to turn LCD lighting via the button on or off.
The Release when Charging function enables shutter release even if the flash is still charging.
The On/Off lever has a third function, preview. In Preview Method, if Optical Preview is set, the lever will function as the classical depth-of-field preview. However, if Digital Preview is selected, a test shot is taken that is not recorded to the card. Using this shot, WB can be adjusted in real time. Once the WB is set to your liking, you’re free to take a real shot.
The Recordable Image No is used to display free space on card in terms of remaining shots. However, with Rcd img no (cont), the available buffer is displayed.
Initial zoom display is used to set the default magnification in image review.
Using aperture ring is used to enable shooting with older lenses, even when their aperture dial is not set to auto.
All functions can be quickly reset to factory defaults.
The last function is Reset Custom Function, used to reset all functions to factory defaults.
The custom settings are an important factor in utilising all of the camera's capabilities. As to how useful they are to each photographer is up to them.
SLR cameras are called system cameras for a reason. Using additional accessories, they gain much in the way of usability. Pentax is the only company that makes it possible to use M42 and Pentax medium format lenses. In addition, it is also possible to use manual focus K mount lenses with the optional AF 1,7X teleconverter, turning them into autofocus lenses.
I'm very familiar with Pentax cameras, which made it easy for me to grow accustomed to the K10D. However, if you have no prior experience with Pentax cameras, it's quite easy to get lost. There were only two things that really bothered me. First of all, ISO sensitivity is not displayed in the viewfinder or on the LCD screen, unless you're in Sv or TAv mode. This means you have to press the OK button to see the ISO setting, which is quite awkward to do, especially if you already framed the shot. The other thing that bothered me was the battery grip. If the buttons on the grip are enabled, it's possible to inadvertently press the shutter release with the palm. For that reason, I kept the buttons disabled most of the time.
In order to really use everything the camera has to offer, getting acquainted with the menu settings is imperative. Many functions are completely new and add a lot of value to the camera. I needed a few days of familiarising myself with the camera in order to make the most of them. However, once you set the camera to your liking, you won’t need to enter the Custom settings menu again.
The camera is turned on with a lever at the shutter release. No surprises here, it functions well. It might surprise you when you turn it on, though. If sensor cleaning is active, the camera emits a relatively loud noise. For a non-pro camera, the viewfinder is excellent. After all, it does use a pentaprism rather than a pentamirror.
The battery grip provides a better, erm, grip. It’s also quite innovative. It houses an additional battery, space for another memory card and a wireless remote relase.
Autofocus is satisfactory. While it may not be very fast, this is mostly the limitation of the in-lens motors. However, new lenses with ultrasonic motors will be introduced soon, which should make focusing much faster. I also noticed that the AF points are very wide. The camera focused on a miniscule contrast point on a white wall, even though the point was quite far away from the selected focus point. Even though contrast was only found at the very edge of the focus point, the camera would focus on it. Focus in low light was excellent. Really, really excellent. The shutter release is smooth, and with a bit of care, you won't jerk the camera when you press it. The mirror is loud and returns relatively slowly.
Metering mode, focus points, aperture, shutter time and exposure compensation are easy and quick to adjust. Autofocus activation via a dedicated button and manual focus after autofocus are also very useful. There are several novel bracketing modes, too. No use wasting too many words on the Shake Reduction system. It’s the same system used in the K100D and performs wonderfully. The dedicated RAW button also adds further unique usability to the camera.
I was also provided with two very good Pentax lenses. These were the SMC Pentax DA 12-24 mm f/4 ED AL IF and my recommendation for the K10D kit lens – the SMC Pentax DA 16-45 mm f/4 ED AL.
In review mode, the images are very saturated visible even in strong sunlight. Due to my extensive experience with other cameras, I noticed another shortcoming. This is not all that important to the enthusiast photographer. However, if you wish to use it in extremely demanding conditions, where you have to adjust most parameters for every shot you take, the camera is a bit slow. Personally, I was extremely impressed by the camera. However, since it's impossible to adjust the settings until the images are recorded to the card, it’s not suitable for really fast shooting. Then again, that’s the only thing that really bothered me.
Seen as a whole, the Pentax K10D is a very useful camera with enough options to customise it completely to your taste.
Pentax K10D, 16 mm, 1/45 s., f/13, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 16 mm, 1/750 s., f/9.5, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 16 mm, 1/500 s., f/13, ISO100. After taking a few shots, I noticed a large dust particle on the sensor. Note that this was a brand new camera. Despite the dust removal function, the particle wouldn’t disappear. However, I noticed no additional particles, which means that this one was obviously a particularly difficult one to remove. Apparently, it was something sticky and greasy. I really didn’t want to remove it, since it was perfect for test purposes.
Pentax K10D, 16 mm, 1/180 s., f/9.5, ISO100. In strong backlight, exposure correction is required. In this case, I didn’t actually use exposure compensation. Rather, I metered on the tarmac, locked the exposure, and reframed.
Pentax K10D, 16 mm, 1/180 s., f/22, ISO100, -0.5 EV.
Pentax K10D, 40mm, 1/90 s., f/8, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/750 s., f/8, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/500 s., f/13, ISO100, +1.5 EV.
Pentax K10D, 24mm, 1/250 s., f/8, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/60 s., f/8, ISO800.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/180 s., f/6.7, ISO100, +1 EV. There’s a lot of talk about the dynamic range due to the camera’s 22 bit AD converter. I know from my past experience with scanning that such claims are a good sales point. I didn’t expect too much from this "miracle”. In high contrast conditions, the Pentax K10D functions well. With a bit of exposure compensation, +1 EV in this case, burned out highlights can be avoided. For better results ...
… there’s always Photoshop. A few clicks to open up the shadows, and there you have it. Ever since digital is affordable to the masses, the shot isn't over once the shutter is pressed.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/250 s., f/6.7, ISO200. Want more saturation? Just go to the menu.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/250 s., f/6.7, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 14mm, 1/350 s., f/11, ISO100.
Pentax K10D, 15mm, 1/8 s., f/4, ISO1600. Shake Reduction proved incredibly useful.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/45 s., f/4.5, ISO1600. For me personally, the noise at ISO 1600 is perfectly acceptable for an A4 print.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/15 s., f/4, ISO1600.
Pentax K10D, 24mm, 1/8 s., f/4, ISO1600.
Pentax K10D, 24mm, 1/4 s., f/4, ISO1600. (100% crop)
Pentax K10D, 24mm, 1/2 s., f/4, ISO1600. All fireworks shots were taken without a tripod and with SR on. (100% crop)
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/1000sec., f/8, ISO200.
Pentax K10D, 15mm, 1/250sec., f/6.7, ISO200.
Pentax K10D, 12mm, 1/180sec., f/6.7, ISO200, -1EV.
Pentax K10D, 24mm, 1/125sec., f/5.6, ISO200.
Image quality
All shots are taken with the Pentax K10D and 16-45 mm f/4 lens combo at various focal lengths at f/8 and ISO 100, unless otherwise specified.
Pentax K10D, 40mm, 1/30 s. at ISO100, f/8. Below: 100% crops.
Pentax K10D from ISO 100 to ISO 1600. The noise becomes more pronounced at ISO 800.
Pentax K10D, 16mm, 1/500 s. at ISO100, f/8. Below: 100% crops.
Pentax K10D, 12-24mm @ 12 mm, 1/350 s. at ISO 100, f/8. Below: 100% crops.
Pentax K10D, 16-45mm @ 16mm, 1/350 s. at ISO 100, f/8. Below: 100% crops.
Canon 400D, 18-55mm @ 18mm, 1/400 s. at ISO 100, f/8. Below: 100% crops. There’s a noticeably colder colour cast compared to the K10D.
Comparison:
Left: Pentax K10D, 16-45 mm; Right: Canon 400D, 18-55 mm.
16 and 18 mm, with no postprocessing. All in-camera processing parameters were set to 0.
After postprocessing in Photoshop. The file from the EOS 400D could be sharpened further.
There’s a noticeable difference in the viewing angle. Also, the K10D has warmer tonality.
16 and 18 mm, with no postprocessing. All in-camera processing parameters were set to 0. With the Canon EF 18-55 mm lens, the chromatic aberration (purple fringing is more pronounced).
After postprocessing in Photoshop. With strong direct lighting, the Pentax K10D preserved more minute details. However, the EOS 400D file could be sharpened further.
16 and 18 mm, with no postprocessing. All in-camera processing parameters were set to 0.
Pentax (left) and Canon (right) set to 45 mm, no postprocessing. All in-camera processing parameters were set to 0.
After postprocessing.
As usual, image quality is difficult to quantify. Therefore, I can only give my personal opinion. All hobbyists want high-quality images. With the Pentax K10D, this is possible, except for pixel peepers who want every pixel to be perfect. I was able to make excellent 30 x 45 cm (12 x 18 inch) prints without noticing any major shortcomings.
Also, noise at ISO 1600 is very well controlled and only becomes noticeable at ISO 800. Because of this, I was able to shoot at ISO 400 with no qualms about image quality.
When viewing images at 100%, some shortcomings are apparent. Again: Every camera has image quality shortcomings, you just have to look for them. As to how apparent this is at normal magnifications, and especially in the final print, well, that’s a whole different story. If I were to go hunting for “shortcomings”, then the prime suspect would be the JPEG compression. I always shot JPEG in the highest possible quality (three stars). Despite this, a 10 MP image is compressed into a 2.5 MB file. The EOS 400D, on the other hand, produced a 3.31 MB file. There’s also something I already noticed with the Sony Alpha 100, which uses the same sensor. In high-contrast details, where the compression algorithm encounters huge differences between tonal values, it produces very pronounced lines.. However, it takes some searching to find such errors. Again, such minor shortcomings can be found in any camera by any manufacturer.
Data compression is quite intensive. At 100% magnification and postprocessing, especially sharpening, it becomes very apparent. On average, a 10MP image is compressed to 2.5 MB at the lowest (least lossy) compression.
When testing the Sony Alpha 100, I noticed strong green lines. However, with the K10D, this was only noticeable after strong postprocessing.
Again, the pronounced lines and the high compression. However, print these images and you won’t be able to notice these shortcomings.
Again: For hobbyists, the image quality is excellent. As usual, of course, much depends on correct post-processing. And then there’s the often neglected X factor – in a good picture, technical shortcomings are almost irrelevant.
Conclusion
In addition to the impressive technical specification, good handling and easy access to all major adjustments would be a very strong factor in buying a Pentax K10D.
In the 1000 EUR price bracket, Pentax just made a giant stride forward. An ergonomically sound and well made body with dust and moisture protection is unique at this price point. In addition to that, Pentax is the only company besides Sony to offer in-camera image stabilisation. This is likely to save quite a bit of money in lenses, making the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) very high. The K10D also incorporates a dust protection system. It’s not quite as effective as the ultrasonic system used by
For a long time, I longed for what Pentax calls the Sv mode. In other words, I set the sensitivity, and the camera sets the shutter time and aperture. While this is possible with other cameras, it’s not as well executed. Pentax went even further – in TAv, you set the time and the aperture, and the camera sets the ISO sensitivity. Again, some other cameras have this possibility, but their execution is not nearly as elegant. At the same time, when functioning in M, it is possible to quickly set exposure parameters as they would be in the P mode using the green button. Also, the camera will override aperture or shutter time settings in Tv and Av modes, if proper exposure is impossible with current settings. Of course, you can disable this if you want full control.
The more time I spent with the camera, the more I came to appreciate all of its features. This, of course, is only true if the user needs these features and is prepared to invest some time into getting familiar with the camera. I’m quite sure that the two major players, Canon and Nikon, will copy a lot of these solutions eventually. Another thing you need to know – the K10D is not a point and shoot camera. In other words, it will take time before you are thoroughly familiar with it. There are a lot custom settings, and you will have to find the ones that are the most important to your style. However, once you’re past the learning stage, there are very few ways in which the camera will limit your creativity. For me personally, the K10D is, technically speaking, a notch above other hobbyist cameras. Its direct competition, the Nikon D80 and the Canon EOS 30D, and to some extent the Sony Alpha, all have their unique advantages. However, if you’re currently buying a camera and you’re not interested in entry level cameras (Canon 400D, Olympus E-400, Nikon D40, Pentax K100D), then the Pentax K10D should be on your shortlist. Weather sealing, good ergonomics, direct access to all main functions via buttons, image stabilisation in the body, (limited) sensor cleaning and almost infinite customisation options are an immense advantage over its competition.
The K10D is something of a revelation - an excellent body loaded with features that produces high-quality images. It all depends on the individual, of course. To those unfamiliar with the Pentax brand, the appeal will be limited. However, with the K10D, Pentax is becoming a household name even to the film virgins. Of course, in order to achieve such recognition, they must offer more bang for considerably less bucks. Interestingly enough, Samsung is having similar problems. Their GX 10, which is a rebadged K10D, is not very popular. Why? Well ... You don't really think "Samsung" when you hear "camera", do you? For all those using other systems, well, they’re unlikely to switch to Pentax, lemming-style, especially if they already acquired a nice handful of lenses.
For everyone else buying a new camera: put the Pentax K10D on the top of your list. This is even more true if you can appreciate and use its features and customisation options. The final decision is, as always, up to you. For the hobbyist photographer, the Pentax K10D is the perfect choice.
The review was done with current firmware. Apparently, a new version of firmware will be made available in January, which will address some concerns raised in the review, and some that weren't even mentioned.
Pentax K10D e-Fotografija video (23MB)
http://www.e-fotografija.com/mojhobi/pentax_k10d.mov
Pentax K100D English version
http://www.e-fotografija.com/artman/publish/article_1154.shtml
http://www.e-fotografija.si/